Training Chibi

Chibi Speaks

2007-01-04T16:26:00.000-05:00

look at my gifts!
one monkey and one dinosaur
i drag them everywhere with me
and like to sleep with them too.

happy new year!

Chibi Speaks

2006-11-15T08:28:00.000-05:00

the walk was long
and i met many other dogs

mommy says now i'm too pooped to be bad
but i have plans!
haha!
oh yes...
i...
do...

zzzzzzzz

Redirection and Isolation

2006-11-10T08:25:00.000-05:00

Ignoring bad behaviour Part II

As seen in the first part on ignoring bad behaviour, to ignore your dog is a necessary part of gentle dog training and is very effective when coupled with rewards for good behaviours. Essentially, if you reward your dog with attention, praise, petting, play or a treat for a given set of behaviours and ignore him entirely for another set of behaviours, your dog will simply choose to repeat the behaviours that have positive outcomes. This is the founding principle upon which the positive dog training method is built.

This approach works for many things and in many circumstances. However, there are times when this will not work well, such as:

1) If you, your children and/or your guests are unable to truly ignore the dog during the bad behaviour in question. Ok, so nobody's yelling at him, but everyone's body language is ridiculously tense (tight shoulders, clenched teeth and fists), and the children can't help looking at him. Noble effort, everyone. I know how hard this can be, believe me, I've been there. But the truth is, you aren't successfully ignoring your dog. He is getting to you, and he knows it.

2) The dog's behaviour is too disruptive. Right then. He isn't engaged in behaviour that is dangerous to himself or others (as seen in Part I, those are grounds for immediate intervention on your part - ignoring is not appropriate under those circumstances) - but he is being highly disruptive, such as barking incessantly and loudly - perhaps in an apartment building. Successfully addressing excessive barking usually requires a multi-faceted approach, as it can have many causes and is a what is referred to as a highly 'self-reinforcing' behaviour. I will be devoting a post to this subject in the near future. For our present circumstances, however - let us simply address it as we would any other undesirable behaviour.

If ignoring is not going to work, here's what else you can do:

Option #1: Redirect
Get your dog's attention and have him do something else, such as a sit & down - or if your dog has a 'spot' such as a cushion or bed in a common room, tell him to go to it. Reward him for complying and wait a few moments before giving him the release command. When he is released, call him towards you and give him a treat. This keeps his attention on you, rather than on jumping all over your guests, or barking incessantly. Look at your dog's body language. Does he seem ready to behave? If you feel that he will slip back into the undesirable behaviour, repeat the redirection. Repeat as many times as necessary.

Option #2: Isolate
If your dog is not responding to redirection or it isn't possible for you to spend time redirecting him, isolate him in another room, or his crate (as long as you've previously associated his crate with a quiet space where he will not be disturbed). When he has been calm for several continuous minutes (anywhere between 3-15 mins, it will be up to you to judge according to the situation and the age of the dog), calmly let him out and praise him for choosing to be calm. Have him do something that you know he can do successfully and easily (such as a 'sit'), have him hold the sit for a moment, give him the release command and give him a treat with lots of praise! If he slips back into this previous bad behaviour, calmly and swiftly isolate him again for about the same amount of time - perhaps a minute longer.

There is no point in 'sort-of' ignoring your dog's bad behaviour. Granted, this will take practice and nobody is perfect - we all accidentally make eye-contact or tense up once in a while. That's ok - we just keep working on it. Ignoring bad behaviour is extremely effective if done correctly - and coupled with rewarding good behaviour, of course. There are times, however, when ignoring is just not going to work. When these situations occur, it is more effective to use other techniques, such as redirection or isolation, rather than have the dog's negative behaviour be inadvertently reinforced because you just weren't able to properly ignore him.

Remember, ignoring, redirection and isolation techniques are part of a positive training approach only when used appropriately and in concert with these points:

It is imperative that you regularly 'catch' your dog being good - and reward him for it!
Your dog needs enough exercise! If you aren't meeting his physical needs, you are setting him up to fail.
You need to spend at least 10 mins a day training your dog. Clicker-training is gentle and very effective.

Good luck!

Chibi Speaks

2006-11-06T07:52:00.000-05:00

lookout below!

this weekend mommy took me to the forest
i love it there

mommy says that
i'm the same color
as all those leaves on the ground

good thing i make so much noise
rustling through them

look, a friend!

He's being so BAD! How do I ignore him?

2006-10-30T08:34:00.001-05:00

Ignoring bad behaviour - Part I

Successfully ignoring your dog when he is engaged in undesirable behaviour is a key part of the positive training method. With the exception of any dangerous behaviour that could harm himself or another - in which case you will need to intervene immediately - your refusal to engage in his behaviour by completely ignoring him will send a strong message.

Remember: Ignoring bad behaviour is ONLY successful if you praise and reward good behaviour!

When Chibi was brought home as a puppy, he would spend long periods of time following us around the house and whining in the hopes that we would coddle him. This was heartbreaking to ignore but we knew it was necessary in order to foster confidence and independence in him. As soon as he was engaged in something else (playing with a toy, chewing a bone or what-not) we would reward him enthusiastically. 'Good dog! Ball!' or 'Good dog! Bone!'. You get the idea. The point is that we wanted to reinforce his autonomous behaviour. All dogs need to learn to occupy themselves for periods of time - and feel secure doing it.

An important consideration: You cannot expect the positive training method to work well for your four-legged friend if you are not meeting his basic needs adequately. He needs to get enough exercise during the day and enough attention from you too! (Think training - clicker training is a great choice - grooming and playing)

Right then. You're certain that your dog has had enough exercise and attention from you today (for the right things!) - and he is engaged in a behaviour that is undesirable - but not dangerous. Some ignoring is in order.

How do you go about ignoring him, precisely?

1) The first thing you need to do is break all eye contact. In fact - do not look at your dog at all. Most people find this easiest to do by simply turning their back on their dog.
2) This might seem obvious - but do not speak to your dog. Don't say 'no!' or 'bad dog'. Do not acknowledge him at all.
3) Remain calm and have it be reflected in your body language. Keep good posture, walk slowly and confidently, breathe slowly and deeply, keep your facial expression neutral and relaxed. Dogs are masters at reading body language - in fact, they are often more aware of our body signals (and consequently, our emotions and states of mind) than we are! You will not succeed in ignoring him successfully if you are tense and angry. Believe me - he will be able to tell. Sometimes dogs (and kids too!) feel that negative attention is still better than no attention. Remain calm.
4) Keep doing this for an appropriate amount of time. This will be up to you to judge. If your dog is a puppy, you will ignore him for shorter periods of time and seize the first opportunity to reward good behaviour. You might have to help him engage in good behaviour by 'redirecting' him. If your dog is older, you might have to ignore him for a greater amount of time. Keep in mind that ignoring is not punishment - it is a withdrawal of your attention. It works because you praise and reward (i.e. give of your attention) your dog when he is engaged in good behaviour. Do not ignore him for excessive amounts of time or it will become a punishment and therefore lose it's effectiveness.

Fundamentals of Positive Training

2006-10-29T20:27:00.000-05:00

The golden rule of positive training is two-fold:

1) Reward the behaviours that you like
2) Ignore the behaviours that you don't like

Reward the behaviours that you like:

This is a very simple concept but one that is, in actual fact, more difficult to effectively put into practice than we realize.

Even if your dog is particularly challenging, he can't be a complete pain in the butt 100% of the time. The important thing to remember is to catch those moments when he is being good and praise him lavishly (and give him a treat!) while he is engaged in the good behaviour. Here's an example: Your dog loves to tear up and down the hallway of your house, landing in the rooms at either end with unmatched puppy zeal - consequently knocking over lamps, coffee tables and such. When he finally settles down on the floor or his cushion/bed, our automatic response - much of the time - is to breathe a sigh of relief and enjoy the sweet (albeit short-lived) moment of peace and quiet. This is where so many of us go wrong. Instead, we should be seizing the opportunity to praise our dog for being quiet and settled! The fact upon which the positive training method rests is this: Behaviours that are reinforced are more likely to reoccur. The more frequently they are reinforced, the stronger the likelihood of future repetition. That's it!

Ignoring what you don't like:

Yes, dogs love praise, treats, toys and such - that's a given. Reinforcement, however, can be far more subtle. Here's a little known fact: In most cases, what reinforces our dog's behaviour the most is our attention. Let's be honest - most of us pay more attention to our dogs when they are doing something that we don't want them to do. In our previous example of the dog tearing up and down the hallway - perhaps we would engage in the behaviour by saying 'No!' - 'Stop it!', getting angry or worse, running after him in an attempt to catch him. (He's got four legs; you have two. Do yourself a favor and forget about it. By the time you catch him - if you do - it will have reinforced the 'catch me if you can' behaviour ten-fold.) Simply minimize the damage that he can do (secure the furniture - pick it up or put it away) remain calm and completely ignore your dog while he is engaged in his furry tornado behaviour. Wait for him to do something that you can reward (i.e sitting down calmly) - and make a big deal out of praising it: Use a very warm and enthusiastic tone of voice 'Good boy!', pet him, give him a treat or a toy. It doesn't need to last long (a few seconds is enough) but the praise/reward should be a stark contrast (within reason) to the complete ignoring that he was eliciting from you but a moment ago.

Ignoring your dog during undesirable behaviours can be quite tricky - and can sometimes involve other means such as redirection and even brief isolation to break a really bad habit (especially if you have children who cannot successfully ignore bad behaviour). I will be addressing this in my next post.

Recap:
1) Praise the behaviours that you want to see. Make sure that you are praising them as they happen - and that it is clear to your dog just what you are reinforcing. This is where the clicker is particularly useful.
2) Ignore the behaviours that you don't want to see. Watch your body language - eye contact counts! Stay calm. You can also redirect your dog towards another behaviour that you can reward, and in some cases, brief 'time-outs' are in order. I will go into detail during my next post.

How to choose an adult dog

2006-10-25T20:53:00.000-04:00

If you are considering welcoming an adult dog as part of your family, congratulations! Although puppies are delightful and often an appropriate choice - there are several reasons to consider an adult dog instead. Most adult dogs have already been housebroken and socialized - many have some basic training too. You will find adult dogs that need a home in shelters - and sometimes you will hear of families in your community that can no longer bear the responsibility of their adult dog. These dogs are often unnecessarily euthanized. Giving these dogs a second chance for a good, stable home is a very compassionate act.

If you decide to choose an adult dog, you will need to do much of the same breed-related research you would have done prior to getting a puppy. What are the nutritional and exercise needs of the breed? What is the average life expectancy and likely vet expenses? What do the grooming needs involve? Are you willing to do the grooming yourself? Is the breed known to be friendly towards kids, cats, small and/or large dogs? If the dog is of mixed breed - consider the breeds that are most prevalent in him in order to best understand his needs.

Also - is everyone in your household in agreement with respect to getting an adult dog and have a firm idea of their role in the care giving/training needs of the dog?

Right then. You've done your research and answered all your questions. You have visited a shelter or two and have found a few dogs that you like and that correspond to the breed(s) that would be best suited to your lifestyle and available resources. Great! You've gone a long way towards ensuring a happy and rewarding life for your new four-legged family member. There is one more important step - finding out more information about the individual dog you want to bring home.

It may seem obvious but it doesn't hurt to recall that a shelter dog has had a history before you came along. Find out as much information as possible by asking the shelter personnel - in many cases, former owners give reasons for which they are giving up their dog. Do not let these deter you, however - simply keep them in mind. Ultimately, you will need to find out for yourself.

How to determine a dog's temperament:

1) Has he been well socialized? Ask to visit with the dog in a private, closed-in area. Crouch down in a friendly manner. Does he come to see you? Does he want your attention? Is his tail wagging, does he want to lick or nudge you?
2) Does he tolerate physical affection? If he comes towards you, pet him several times. Does he pull away or ask for more?
3) Is he very excitable? Jump around and make noise for several seconds (try not to scare him - just act like a very happy child). Does he get excited too? Does he get aggressive? How long does it take for him to calm down? Does he jump all over the place and bark excessively when excited?
4) Does he suffer from separation anxiety? Leave the room for a few minutes. Upon your return, observe his behaviour. Is he stressed out? Out of breath? Excessively whiny?
5) How does he respond to the outdoors? Most shelters accept that you take the dog out for a brief walk. How does he respond to outside stimuli?

As a result of this 'temperament test', you will have a much better idea of the needs of this particular dog. Repeat with any other dog you are interested in. With the exception of any aggressive behaviour - which is definitely more time consuming to eliminate- all undesirable reactions listed above can be successfully addressed with positive training.

Chibi Speaks

2006-10-23T20:29:00.000-04:00

this weekend
i went to visit my grandparents
they always give me delicious cookies
and toys too sometimes

in the car, when we get close
mommy says i wag my tail and
make a lot of noise
she says i sound like a monkey-dog

when we got there
we played the click-treat game
this is me and mommy doing high-five!

Primary and Secondary Reinforcers

2006-10-21T11:39:00.000-04:00

Positive training techniques use both primary and secondary reinforcers to shape behaviour.

Here's how it works:

The primary reinforcer is something the dog naturally wants, like food, sex or play. For training purposes, food is the easiest primary reinforcer to use – play is not recommended given that it will interrupt the training session (you can use it at the end though, or during a break) and sex… well – let’s not go there, ok? So. Food is your primary reinforcer – and most dogs really like food.

Secondary reinforcers are things that the dog is taught to like by associating them with the primary reinforcer. (i.e. click - treat!) Just about anything can be used as a secondary reinforcer – your voice, a clicker, a whistle, a bell. Morgan Specter in Clicker Training for Obedience uses the acronym PRIDE to list the most important considerations when choosing a conditioned reinforcer:

Present: It must be with you and easily accessible (think small and portable)
Reliable: It must make the same sound every time – otherwise it’ll confuse your dog. (This is particularly difficult for the human voice)
Immediate: The sound must be quick and precise (think short sounds)
Distinct: The sound must be one that the dog doesn’t hear in any other context.
Evident: The dog must be able to recognize it separate and apart from all other sounds and stimuli that he encounters.

I'm partial to the clicker because it meets all of these considerations and it's inexpensive and easy to use.

A few more words on the primary reinforcer:

You should make your primary reinforcer (food) as small as you can get away with. Your dog probably won't work for a speck of food, but you don't need to give him a huge cookie every time either. The point is not to make your dog obese! If you and your dog are doing a lot of training, give him a little less food in the morning and in the evening to compensate for the treats you are giving him. Vary the primary reinforcer as much as possible to keep your dog's interest high. I choose 3 or 4 treats that I know Chibi likes, cut them into little pieces and mix them together in my treat bag. That way Chibi doesn't know what treat he's going to get next.

But I want my dog to work for me!

2006-10-19T07:50:00.000-04:00

Some people object to positive reinforcement methods because they believe that the dog should simply work for them - not for food or for a sound (clicker). These people are usually highly committed to corrective methods - and what they don't always understand is that their dog isn't working for them; he's working to avoid being punished.

A dog that is working to avoid being punished,
1) Is learning what he shouldn't do, not what he should
2) Is learning that his relationship with his owner is a struggle
3) Will often shy away from creativity and resist learning new behaviour (it may result in a punishment!)
4) In several cases will burn out, become aggressive or develop anxiety-related behaviour

If you live, as I do, in an area where there are many dog owners - take a 15 min 'observation' walk. Leave your dog at home so that you can really focus your attention on both the owner and her dog's behavior. Notice what kind of collar the dog is wearing. Is the dog walking happily next to his owner? Is the dog walking ahead or behind? Is the owner relaxed and happy with a loose leash, or is she gripping the leash tightly with a frown? Is the dog struggling, or flinching? Is his tail high, relaxed or tucked between his legs? Observe as much as you can.

Both the dog's and the owner's body language will reveal volumes on the relationship between them - and the training methods used (if any).

Why is it that some object to rewarding their dog for behaviour? Think about it. Would you work for free? Sure, you can volunteer - but would you always work for free? I didn't think so. Giving your dog something that it wants in return for something you want is the training bargain that drives the positive reinforcement method. Positive reinforcement increases the likelyhood that a given behaviour be repeated. It focuses on what your dog should do - on the behaviours that make you happy. Your dog will willingly and happily cooperate with you. As this kind of training progresses, it actually becomes easier to shape new behaviour as well as to perfect the things he has already learned. After all, the dog is an intelligent mammal with a mind and a will of its own. This training bargain will result in a dog that chooses the behaviours that you want him to adopt.

Does this mean that you need to give your dog a treat for every single good behaviour for the rest of his life? Of course not. I will discuss this in another post.

Chibi Speaks

2006-10-17T19:31:00.000-04:00

today when i came home

after the walk

i was very wet

so mommy wrapped me

in the soft blue blanket

and laughed.

she called me a furry pear-ee-scope.

what is a pear-ee-scope?

Handling your dog

2006-10-16T08:14:00.000-04:00

It is very important to spend some time every day gently handling your dog. Given that Chibi is a poodle, I need to clean his eyes and ears as well as comb through his hair on a daily basis (yes it's hair, not fur). During our grooming regimen, I take the opportunity to check him all over for any injuries, ticks, burrs as well as anything else that could signal a potential problem.

If you don't have a dog that needs as much grooming-related care, you should still make a point of massaging him every day so that he becomes comfortable being handled. Tricky areas are usually the paws, the tail, the ears and the mouth. You should examine your dog's mouth every day - which means you'll need to touch his gums, tongue and teeth. Don't rush this process, your dog needs to feel comfortable with being handled - don't make it a struggle or a wrestling match. Simply massage areas that he feels comfortable with first and slowly move to areas that are more difficult. Pick one difficult area to work on until he is comfortable with it - even if it takes weeks of daily handling. When you have achieved this, work on another sensitive area (always massaging comfortable areas first).

When you get to a sensitive area and your dog resists - do not pull your hand away, but don't insist on continuing either. Simply leave your hand there until your dog begins to relax. When he has relaxed, reward him. It will eventually become easier. Remember - letting you examine and handle him all over requires a large amount of trust on his part. You can increase his trust in you, in general, by working on other aspects of your relationship. Clicker-training is a great way to establish trust, if you set the dog up to succeed and you are consistent with your rewards.

Why is it important to handle my dog every day?
1) You will detect injuries faster
2) You will be able to give your dog medication with ease (Ever try giving a dog a pill to swallow? Try doing it if he won't let you touch his mouth.)
3) You will make your dog more comfortable being handled by professionals such as your vet or your local groomer (many dogs are anesthetized unnecessarily because they don't let themselves be handled)
4) It will strengthen the bond between you (provided you proceed respectfully and you reward him - if you make this a power struggle you will achieve the opposite!)
5) It will increase your dog's awareness of his own body (just like it does for regularly massaged humans)

Happy handling!

Clicking Progress

2006-10-14T08:09:00.000-04:00

Chibi's progress with the clicker has been astonishing. In a few short training sessions, he has perfected what he already knows and has learned new behaviours, including:

1) Crawl
2) Settle
3) Roll-over
4) High five!

I'm very impressed with his rate of learning! Using the clicker method seems to be highly motivating for him, which is important because in order for training to be ultimately successful and long-lasting, it has to be fun! Owners should always approach training sessions with enthusiasm. Remember - he is an eternal child!

From the beginning to the end of the 'clicker game', I have Chibi's complete attention. I begin by giving him some easy tasks that he earns click-treats for - and then we build to more difficult behaviours from that point forward. The fantastic thing about the clicker is that it allows me to make progress by breaking down a behaviour. I'll 'click' a small move in the right direction - and will gradually shape the behaviour until it is complete.

It's important to be sensitive to your dog's learning threshold. We've all been in classes, seminars or meetings that seem interminable. After a while, we're unable to absorb any more useful information - we've reached our saturation point. Our dogs also reach this point and it can happen before we are ready to stop the training session. It's necessary to pay attention to our dog's cues. If you've been training for awhile and he's not responding as well or his concentration is poor, stop the training session and come back to it later. This will often happen when you are trying to shape or perfect a new behaviour. Your dog needs to know that you will respect his learning curve and energy levels. Before you end the session, however, always have the dog perform something easy that he knows well. Even if it's simply 'sit!', it doesn't matter - what's crucial is that you always finish the training session with success and a reward. I can't stress this point enough. It's also a good idea to give your dog a favorite toy that he can play with on his own once the training session is over.

Recap training points:
1) Only train when you are ready to do it with enthusiasm! (Not when stressed or tired!)
2) Don't try to move too quickly - break down new behaviours and click-reward often!
3) Be sensitive to your dog's cues!
4) Always end the training on a positive, successful note.

Happy training!

Chibi Speaks

2006-10-13T09:00:00.000-04:00

today it is so windy
i hope I don't blow away

wet leaves are fun to walk on
sometimes they get caught in my fur
and mommy laughs

ok mommy wants me to walk more now bye! Weee!

Clicker Training

2006-10-11T18:44:00.000-04:00

Clicker training is becoming increasingly popular among dog owners. There are many reasons for this.

1) Clickers are inexpensive and easy to come by (either online or at a pet supply store near you)
2) Clickers are a perfect fit for owners using positive reinforcement training methods
3) Clickers are very easy to use
4) Clickers are far more effective as markers of desired behaviours than the usual 'good boy, good girl' - especially for more complex behaviours that you may want to teach. (Think - agility training!)
5) It's highly motivating and stimulating for your dog! And it's fun for you too!

What is a clicker?

Essentially, the clicker is a small plastic box with a metal tongue that when pressed produces a 'click' sound. They can vary somewhat in size and color - and some clickers have adjustable volumes and tones! (Especially useful when you have more than one animal - but not a requirement. You can train all your animals with the same clicker sound.)

How does the clicker work?

In very simple terms, the dog learns to associate the 'click' sound with food. You can achieve this Pavlovian response very quickly by clicking and giving the dog a treat the moment he looks at you (which he will - because you made a sound he hasn't heard before). You repeat this as many times as it takes until your dog comes to expect food once he has heard the click. The time needed to form the click-food association will depend on the dog, but it rarely takes long.

Once you have achieved this, you proceed to use the click to mark specific behaviour. I'm using the clicker to reinforce behaviours that Chibi already knows well (sit, down, stay, etc.) and to teach him new, more complex behaviours. The great thing about the clicker is that it allows you to mark the behaviour the moment the dog performs it - which makes it easier to tweak, improve and teach new skills! It also encourages your dog to be creative and to think: 'hmm... what am I going to have to do to get that click and treat? I know, I'll try this!' Also, the click is a very distinctive sound that is nearly impossible to replicate accidentally. It's meaning is clear to your dog: 'Yippee! I've done something right!'

Chibi speaks - To Eat or To Sleep?

2006-10-11T08:58:00.000-04:00

Today I went to the forest!
Leaves hide the ground.
I ran & ran & ran!
Squirrels run faster.
I found mommy hiding behind a tree.

I'm very sleepy.
Must chew on delicious tasty stick.
Sleepy...

zzz

In defense of exercise

2006-10-09T10:03:00.000-04:00

Cesar Millan, of National Geographic Channel's Dog Whisperer believes that we should be giving dogs the following, in that order:

1) Exercise
2) Discipline
3) Affection

(N.B - There's a big difference between discipline and punishment. I will address this in another post.)

Essentially, our dogs need daily exercise - usually more than we think. It is grossly inadequate to only give your dog a few 'spins around the block', a few times a day, so that he can relieve himself. It's important to evaluate the energy levels of your dog so as to tailor your day around the amount of exercise that he/she needs. This is an important consideration to keep in mind before opening your home to a new canine companion - don't get a dog that has higher energy levels than yours (i.e. needs more exercise than you can realistically provide). Some of the better dog books go into some detail about the exercise needs of different breeds, but another great way to find out this information is to ask other dog owners. Want to know if what you've heard about beagles is true? Ask a beagle owner! Better yet, ask as many beagle owners as you can and pay particular attention to common observations. Every dog is different - even within the same breed - but members of the same breed have many more points in common than differences.

Be honest with yourself. You may love the look of a certain breed, but if you aren't a good match, it's bound to be a miserable enterprise. This post is about exercise, which is undoubtedly a huge part of living with a dog, but there are many other aspects to consider before choosing a dog (temperament, common ailments, amount of food, grooming, etc...). Take your time! And once you have chosen a particular breed - then you need to get to know your dog. More on this another time.

Back to Cesar. Cesar observed that many dogs in North America are particularly unhappy and have developped mild to severe 'issues' - despite the fact that our pet industry rakes in billions of dollars every year. He believes that a huge part of this problem is our tendency as a culture to antropomorphize our dogs. Many of us treat our dogs like furry four-legged people. Although we have the best of intentions, we send them mixed messages, and tend to give them something more like: 1) affection, 2) affection, 3) exercise. Not enough exercise, no appropriate discipline and too much/inappropriate displays of affection. There are better ways to love and care for your dog. More on this later.

In essence, one of the best things that you can do for your dog (and for yourself!) is to provide him/her with enough exercise. This will allow your furry companion to spend excess amounts of energy (they need you to help them do this, your house is not the outdoors!), allow them to be in a better frame of mind to learn (discipline) and to adapt in a healthy way to the many stressors of our daily urban lives.

What are you doing? Still reading this? Get off the couch and go give your dog a walk! :)

Off-leash adventures

2006-10-04T08:10:00.000-04:00

When your dog is ready, there are certain places where you can let him/her run free. If you live in the country there are usually many more places available to you for off-leash adventures; in the city - at first glance - these areas are usually limited to dog parks. I will be discussing dog parks in another post.

If you live in an urban center (as most of us do), do not despair! There are often spots (other than dog parks) that are well known to other dog owners where you can let your dog run free. Do not be shy to ask. Many dog owners are well informed about what dog-friendly activities are offered in your vicinity.

Here in Montreal, there is a place commonly referred to as 'The Summit'. It spans a generous portion of the west side of Mt. Royal and serves as a bird sanctuary. During certain hours, it is open to joyful off-leash romping of human and dog alike! It's beautiful and offers a world of experience for any dog. Chibi bounces over fallen tree trunks and tears through the leaves - you can't help but laugh as his body positively wriggles with glee. He and I like to play a little game of Hide & Seek. It's a terrific training tool, and it's fun! Essentially, there are many very interesting things to see and smell in such an environment and it's easy for your dog to become quite engrossed in his new found freedom. It is normal that your furry companion travels ahead of you (or to the side, or behind!) in these environments and may move out of your line of sight. Continuously looking around for your dog is something you want to avoid. Instead, you want him to be aware of where you are. A great way to do this is to play Hide & Seek. At some point when your dog is not looking (or is out of sight), hide behind a big tree and do not move. (I like to pick a tree that will let me peak through a branch or two so that I can observe Chibi.) Wait. Eventually (most often it will take only moments), your dog will become aware that he/she can't hear your steps anymore and will begin to look for you. During the first few rounds of this game, you can decide to give your dog a 'hint' (i.e. - make a sound) so that he/she can find you fairly easily. The point is not to give your dog anxiety! When your four-legged friend finds you, give him/her a treat and a big 'good boy!/girl!'.

This game is very beneficial on several levels:
1) It obliges your dog to re-direct his/her attention, at regular intervals, on where it should be: you. (It reinforces your position as 'pack leader'. More on this in another post.)
2) Given time, it will teach your dog not to roam too far away - otherwise you might disappear!
3) It creates a situation that stimulates your dog's problem-solving skills (i.e. - find the owner!) and always ends in a reward!
4) It's fun, and tightens the bond between you!

Why this game works:
Dogs are pack animals. They do not want to be left behind! If they notice that they can't find their other pack members (i.e. - you), they will begin to search for them. You can use this natural behavior to send a clear message to your dog: I am the pack leader and your job is to be aware of where I am at all times.

Chibi speaks

2006-10-01T14:21:00.000-04:00

is it time to come out now?

today mommy put me in the warm water
and covered me
with
smelly white bubbles.
i tried to eat them but
they taste very bad.
after, mommy covered me with soft dry things
and I fell asleep.

Chibi speaks

2006-09-29T08:33:00.000-04:00

today it is raining.
everything smells different in the rain.
i like wet grass! it feels good on my belly.
when i come in after the walk i go a little crazy.
i run up and down the hallway and squirm my wet belly on the soft furry floor. and i snort.
mommy laughs. look, a bone!

Walking

2006-09-27T14:40:00.001-04:00

These days, Chibi and I are working hard on perfecting our walk. Chibi is easily distracted and tends to pull ahead for a variety of reasons, including marking trees, chasing squirrels, greeting other dogs and generally wanting to get to interesting destinations faster. I've found that the most effective technique to deal with this particular issue is what I like to call the 'double-back method'. Although it's somewhat labour intensive, it is a gentle and effective method. Essentially, the moment that Chibi walks ahead of me, I smoothly and quietly turn around and walk in the opposite direction. I do a full 180 degree turn with as little change in my stride and pace as possible. It is important to keep my body language neutral so as not to feed into my dog's bad walking habit by getting upset, or pulling on the leash, or even saying: 'No!'. A simple change in posture as a result of frustration can be interpreted as a gratifying response by our four-legged companion - so it's crucial to be as relaxed and in control as possible. After a few undetermined amount of steps in the opposite direction, I double-back again and head anew towards my original destination.

How does this method work: Chibi learns that in order to get to the interesting destination in question, (tree, other dog, park) he will need to walk next to me. If he pulls ahead, we immediately turn around and walk away from the destination and it therefore takes much longer to get to. The beauty of this method is that it teaches the dog to willingly cooperate. No pulling, no yelling, no frustration (well - that one can be hard but we need to remember to relax and surrender to the process), no choking chains. Sure, you might get a few quizzical looks from your neighbours, but they're soon bound to notice how beautifully your dog walks and ask you about your method!

Since I've started implementing this technique consistently, Chibi's walking has improved dramatically. Some days, I double-back 8 times in a row; most days, I double-back only once or twice during the walk. Overall, Chibi has been walking very well, his body language is much calmer and he has been known to practically ignore a bouncing squirrel or two. Now that's progress!